The refret procedure is as follows, if possible the neck is removed. All frets are heated to soften any glue present  and then removed. Maple necks are masked off to protect the lacquer. 

The neck is then set straight, by adjusting the truss rod. Straightness is checked using a precision ground, engineered straight edge.

At this point, any issues with the fret board can be addressed, re-radius, light sand back etc.
Next stage is the installation of new frets. New frets are pre-radiused to suit your fret board and pressed into postion. I prefer the use of a little glue on the frets and to use a fret press, to achieve the best results.

The next stage is to level the frets, if you have set the neck correctly before installation and installed the frets carefully, often not much levelling is required.

Once level, a slight "fall away" is sanded into the frets from the 12th fret upwards. Fall away can help to lower the string action even further than a simple fret level.

Once level, the frets can be recrowned, with the use of diamond crowning files. The fret ends are also addressed at this point , along with any neck slot filling. The frets are then gradually polished to a mirror finish, using  progressively finer sandpapers and polishes.

Any nitrocellulose lacquer refinishing is done at this point, or oiling if a rosewood fretboard. I use boiled linseed oil for this. Linseed oil nourishes the wood and brings out the beauty of the grain.

From this point onwards we are at the "Pro Setup" stage. Please click for further info.